Daylight UAP photos comprise a collection of high-resolution UFO images taken with DSLR cameras. These are photos of unidentified flying objects, mostly in the distance, but also some relatively close to the camera. Objects selected here have an anomalous nature or unusual shape, which is the reason why they were selected. This is genuine daylight UAP photography of unknown objects above Denmark captured since 2009. And this is the story about how I capture these anomalies, how I analyse the photos and prepare them for the public.
If you’ve seen the now rather long list of UAP photos I have, you might think that’s a little strange. How can this one man have so many UFO images? Well, that’s because I regularly take pictures of the sky when beautiful cloud formations appear, or other weather-related phenomena occur, like the Sun Halo picture above.
I always have my DSLR cameras ready to shoot. And now and then, I look out of my west-facing terrace door to see if anything exciting is happening in the sky. If there’s a cloud formation that looks beautiful or somehow unusual, I typically take several photos to add to my archive. And sometimes the Unidentified Anomalous Phenomena (UAP) appears in the photos, which I discover subsequently when I analyse the images.
High-resolution daylight UAP photos from Denmark
The high-resolution daylight UAP photos that I have are primarily captured in Denmark, and they are all taken in daylight. The term “high-resolution” does not mean that the images are always razor-sharp. Objects may be far away in the images and appear as a speck in the photograph. But because of the high-resolution imagery produced by today’s digital cameras, you can magnify several times and obtain a workable and visible shape.
Back in the day with analog photography, distant objects in a photograph were something you just ignored as an “Artifact”. There wasn’t much you could do about them other than examine the artifact under a magnifying glass. But with the personal computer, software like Photoshop, and a new era of digital photography, a cornucopia of possibilities opened up for UFO images.
With a proper digital camera with a large image sensor and high pixel volume, you can produce high-resolution daylight UAP photos. This enables you to scale up very small objects. If there’s something anomalous hiding in the sky, you’ll catch it. The downside of me not noticing them when I’m taking pictures is that I don’t have anything to focus on. If I don’t see the subject, I can’t bring it into focus.
UAPs are spotted but unaware of their anomalous nature
Sometimes, I find myself spotting the UAPs without realizing their anomalous nature. That happened back in 2010, when I assumed I saw a small Cessna-type single-engine aircraft in the distance. That happened while taking pictures of an aviation contrail. And because of that assumption, I shifted my focus to the condensation trail alone. Fortunately, the UAP was ahead of the contrail in the direction I was photographing, so it appeared in five photos.
As you can see in the authentic daylight UAP photo above, the object is not 100% in focus, but very close. It has these black pontoons, which could be mistaken for the wings of an airplane. The whitish body that looks oval/eeg-shaped in the photo is sitting under and between the black pontoons. Very similar to the silhouette of an airplane.
High-resolution photos captured the UAP
This is another case where the UAP was spotted, but its anomalous nature were missed. It occurred in 2013 during a visit to a supposed UFO landing site. The site was probably the place where a sparkling light went down in 1981. And there I was with all my camera equipment investigating the site, filming and taking pictures. At one point, I saw an orange light high above me and assumed it was a commercial airliner reflecting the setting sun.
For some unknown reason, I did not focus my attention on the object and did not zoom in to take some pictures. I did take some shots, but without zooming in. I was probably under some sort of influence, because I planned to photograph everything strange, and I did not.
But lucky me, the high-resolution photos captured the UAP. And this is not a commercial airliner, which I thought, but a classic flying saucer with two portholes visible, visiting the old 1981 landing site. The saucer virtually confirmed the authenticity of the site while I was there (and I got my UFO images).
Basic analysis of daylight UAP photos in Photoshop
The analysis of daylight UAP photos typically begins with me loading the images into Photoshop and starting by zooming in. Then I look through the entire image to see if there’s anything hiding in the sky or in the clouds. If I find something difficult to discern, I use the basic tools in Photoshop like Auto Tone or Auto Contrast. This is how I make blurred distant objects clear to see, like in the example below from Denmark 2017, where two UAPs are hiding in the mist. You can glimpse one of the objects; the other one is barely visible.
After Photoshop’s Auto Tone filter was used on the misty daylight UAP photo above, the following result appeared in the picture below. The visibility of the objects has been maximized, proving that there really is something up there in the clouds. It shows a spherical UFO with a black band across and a strange vertical companion.
Adobe Photoshop’s Auto Tone filter doesn’t always make the photos look beautiful. But it does its job and highlights the presence of faint objects so that no one is in any doubt that they’re there. These filters are not intended for creating graphics, but for basic photo processing and enhancement.
Photoshop filters used for basic image processing
The Photoshop filters used for basic image processing typically involve only three filters: Auto Tone, Auto Contrast, and Brightness/Contrast. If an object is hiding in the mist, like in the above example, I use Auto Tone or Auto Contrast. These filters almost always guarantee a nice result, making the objects clear to see.
Sometimes, if I use Auto Contrast, it usually needs a little extra light, so I use the Brightness/Contrast filter. I rarely use the Calculations filter, but it is great if you have a shape difficult to discern and want to see it in different ways.
In addition to the use of basic filters, cropping and scaling are half of the work. Typically, I crop out small objects with the Rectangular Marquee tool. I do that at 200×100, 300×150, 400×200, or 600×300 pixels, depending on the size of the objects. And then I scale them up to 1200×600 pixels and repeat that process if needed.
The 1200×600 pixel dimension is close to the recommended minimum image size for websites. Actually, it is slightly smaller than the recommended size. But I chose this resolution because it fits best with what I’m doing here.
That was a short essay about my high-resolution daylight UAP photos.
See the complete collection of UFO images here
Go back to Frontpage